Let us play

For anyone who surfs... and has eaten shit in the process.
"Let us play" she says
I say, "okay"
then stand upon the sands and pray
"Mother, please keep me safe today"
she responds, as always, "you'll be okay."
With reverence I hurl myself into blue
The sky - a palette of deep lavender hues
Faint rays of light bid night, adieu
Dawn marks the time for our game to ensue.
My breath, my calm, I try to keep
Mountains rumble from cerulean deep
She picks me up, her face so steep
But with my faith, I take a leap
Stomach drops, heart skips a beat
Hesitation hits, yet I can't retreat
Falling forward, can't find my feet
Head-first over heels, now facing defeat
She slams me down, can't see nor breathe
Clenched in the grip of her gnarly teeth
Lungs burn for the surface of the salty sea
yet a strange serentiy encompasses me
I find the space between sea and sky
Gasping, aware, and utterly alive
Hurriedly, frantically, with each stroke I glide
to get back in line for the world's greatest ride.
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